The Ultimate Travel Guide to Bacalar, Mexico - Feather and the Wind

Over the last few years, we’ve been able to explore so many beautiful destinations in Mexico. From the colourful hillsides of Guanajuato to the quaint beach towns along the coast of Oaxaca, we’re amazed each and every time we visit. But among the hidden gems sprinkled throughout the country’s versatile landscapes, Bacalar stands out as one of our favourite places to date. In this travel guide, we’re sharing the top things to do and how to make the most of your time in Bacalar, Mexico. All restaurants, hotels and activities mentioned in this post are also pinned on a handy map at the bottom of this guide.

Bacalar, Mexico Travel Guide

The town of Bacalar is tucked away in the south of Mexico, less than an hour from the Belize border. It’s a popular destination among locals who flock to the state of Quintana Roo for their holidays but still relatively unknown to Mexico’s international visitors. Bacalar is fairly small (the last census reported fewer than 12,000 people) and the town became one of Mexico’s beloved pueblo magicos in 2006. Bacalar is one of the quieter places to visit in the Yucatan peninsula and part of the charm is in its size. You’re far enough away from the Walmarts and McDonald’s of more touristy cities but will still find all your basic necessities for a comfortable and memorable stay.

Getting to Bacalar, Mexico

Cancun to Bacalar | 345 kms | Around 4 hours and 20 minutes by car
Playa del Carmen to Bacalar | 279 kms | Around 3 hours and 30 minutes by car
Tulum to Bacalar | 215 kms | Around 2 hours and 30 minutes by car
Chetumal to Bacalar | 39 kms | Around 40 minutes by car

BY PLANE: The closest airport to Bacalar is in the city of Chetumal, about 40 minutes away. While there are fun things to do in Chetumal, the capital city of Quintana Roo, it’s more likely you’ll be arriving to Bacalar lagoon via Cancun.

BY BUS: The bus system in Mexico is incredibly convenient for travelling throughout the country. You can reach Bacalar via ADO bus from destinations like Chetumal, Playa del Carmen, Tulum and Cancun. These routes are well-serviced with several daily departures to Bacalar.

The bus ‘station’ in Bacalar is not much of a station at all.

I was hesitant when the driver announced our stop because it looked like he was pulling over on the side of the highway. Because he was. The ticket office for buses in Bacalar is on the east side of the main highway and, if you’re travelling southbound from Cancun, the bus will stop on the west side. As of 2019, there is no physical station or parking lot for buses to pull into. From the ‘station’, it’s a 15 minute walk into town or an affordable taxi ride.

Most ADO buses in Mexico are very comfortable with A/C, washrooms, entertainment screens and (sometimes) even wifi. Second class buses in Mexico are not as efficient but will get you where you’re going at a fraction of the price. Buses serviced to Bacalar by the company Mayab have fewer amenities and are not as popular of a choice with tourists. We’ve literally crossed the country (from Cabo to Cancun) almost entirely by bus and would recommend it as a budget-friendly, comfortable and efficient means of transportation.

BY CAR: We don’t have personal experience driving in Mexico but have been told that the Yucatan Peninsula is among the safest regions in the country for tourists exploring by car. From Cancun, the drive is roughly 4 hours and pretty direct following highway 307 south. Roughly halfway between Cancun and Bacalar is Tulum and you’ll want to make sure to fill up on gas here before continuing. As with any road trip, avoid driving at night, follow the rules of the road, hide your valuables, make sure you have a spare tire and watch out for topes (speed bumps in Mexico are often bigger than necessary). If you’re on the fence about driving in Mexico, this guide for first-time drivers is an excellent resource.

BY GUIDED TOUR: One of the most popular question we get on Instagram is about day trips to Bacalar. If you’re staying in Cancun and want to experience the magic of Bacalar in a day, this full day Bacalar tour includes transportation, a boat tour and boxed lunch. Given the distance between the two destinations, this would make for a very long travel day but the benefits include having an informed guide with you and hassle-free transportation.

Best Things to do in Bacalar, Mexico

GET IN THE WATER: One of the many reasons to love the Lagoon of 7 Colours is its shallow, clear waters. Since this is a freshwater lagoon, you won’t find any beaches in Bacalar. Some may see this as a downside but we found swimming in the lagoon to be much more enjoyable than in the salty (and sometimes aggressive) waves of the ocean.

GO SAILING WITH VELEANDO ANDO: The highlight of our trip was our afternoon spent sailing on Bacalar Lagoon. Learn about the lagoon from passionate guides and reduce your carbon footprint during a leisurely afternoon tour.

JOIN A KAYAK TOUR (or DIY Your Own!): Rent a kayak in town and DIY your own tour of the lagoon or join a guided excursion like the ones offered by Active Nature.

VISIT THE PIRATES CHANNEL: Nearly all tours in Bacalar include a stop at the ‘Canal de los Piratas’ and with good reason. The water is only waist-deep at some parts so you can easily pack a cooler, drop the anchor and relax. There’s also an abandoned structure near the channel that many visitors jump from.

ENJOY BACALAR’S FREE PUBLIC DOCKS: The town has recently renovated free access points to the lagoon with docks that you can lounge and tan at. Look for signs reading balnearios located on Avenida 1 (the Costera) and Calle 14, Calle 16, and Calle 18. This is a great alternative if your accommodations are not along the water.

SUP AT SUNRISE: Don’t ask me why but the sunrises in Bacalar are especially beautiful. Enjoy having the lagoon almost to yourself with a quiet morning on a stand up paddle. If you’ve never been on a paddle board before, you might enjoy this guided sunrise tour that includes a SUP lesson as well as a visit to Cenote Negro.

DIVE IN AT XUL-HA: Only 15 minutes south of the town of Bacalar is where you’ll find the even smaller village of Xul-Ha. At Balneario Lago Azul, there’s a dock for swimming and a diving platform for the brave.

FLOAT DOWN THE RAPIDS OF BACALAR: There is a narrow channel roughly halfway between Bacalar and Xul-Ha known as the rapids or ‘Los Rapidos.’ Kayaks are available for rent or you can simply let the current take you as you swim down. Entrance is 50 pesos.

TAKE IN THE VIEWS FROM FORT SAN FELIPE: The 18th century ‘Fuerte San Felipe’ is a small but important site in Bacalar with great views of the lagoon and surroundings. Admission has gone up to 100 pesos recently so it may only be worthwhile if you’re particularly interested in the history of Bacalar. Closed on Mondays.

GO ZIP-LINING AT KAN K’IN BACALAR: This adventure park is only 15 minutes north of Bacalar and offers zip-lining tours in the middle of a jungle. There are 5 short zip-lines in total and the last one even overlooks the impressive turqouise waters of the lagoon. Tours start at 750 pesos so it’s not the most budget-friendly activity but definitely a unique thing to do in Bacalar.

BACALAR RESTAURANTS

LA PINA: Enjoy big portions at an affordable price in a cute backyard setting under the trees. Their wholesome dishes are made with fresh ingredients and we really enjoyed the smoothies, pizzas and huaraches. If you like it as much as we did, you’ll find yourself coming back here more than once during your stay! La Pina is open daily for breakfast and lunch with a menu change for dinner. Vegan-friendly and takeout service available.

ENAMORA BACALAR: This unassuming cafe and bakery is a great choice for breakfast, lunch or a good coffee break (yes, there’s french press in Bacalar!). Between the service and attention to detail, you can tell that everything here is made with love. The play on words at Enamora Bacalar is that mora means blackberry in Spanish and enamora means to fall in love with. And you’ll likely fall for their signature cinnamon rolls. Open daily from 8am to 3pm.

Not sure what foods to order in Mexico? Our (giant) guide to authentic Mexican food will help with that!

COCINA ORIZABA: No frills, just really local dishes at unbeatable prices.

MANGO Y CHILE: A very popular plant-based restaurant near the lagoon.

PUES SI: A small, central spot right at the main square with good pizza.

EL MANATI: An eco-friendly shop and art space with a restaurant in the back garden.

MARQUESITAS SAN JOAQUIN: A local food truck serving the best marquesitas in town. This crepe-like dessert is popular in the neighbouring state of Yucatan and is a snack we’d highly recommend trying while in Mexico. Nutella and cheese is the combo you’ll want to order here. Don’t knock it' till you try it!

LA PLAYITA: This lakeside beach bar and restaurant offers a fusion style menu in a trendy setting with plenty of seating. For the price, we were a little disappointed with the appetizers and service, especially given how well-recommended this place is. Nonetheless, the music, atmosphere and dock access at La Playita make it a great spot for afternoon or pre-dinner drinks, views of the lake and a little hammock siesta.

Local Transportation in Bacalar

The town of Bacalar is small and easily walkable. Depending on where you’re staying, you’ll likely be able to walk everywhere and there are local taxis readily available when travelling longer distances. The main taxi stand is in the town square near the ‘Bacalar’ letters. If you have a hard time finding a cab, you can ask your hotel or restaurant to call one for you or, worst case, walk toward the highway where you’ll be able to hail one easily.

Bikes are also a great way to explore the surroundings and rentals are available throughout town. Some accommodations include the use of bikes or kayaks in the room rate so that’s something to consider while looking for a place to stay.

Where to Stay in Bacalar, Mexico

Like many of our favourite destinations in Mexico, Bacalar has accommodations for every type of traveler. From basic camping to budget hostels to luxury villas, there are so many different ways to experience the town and lagoon. The town’s main square, the Zócalo, is the heart of Bacalar. If you’re looking for central accommodations near Bacalar’s top sites, limit your search to within walking distance of the Zócalo or along the lagoon. The further you get from the town and lagoon, the less expensive your accommodations should be.

While looking for a place to stay in Bacalar, I noticed that many of the lodgings I saw on Google Maps weren’t listed on any of our usual booking sites (like Airbnb, Expedia or Booking). That might change as the town grows in popularity but, if you’re struggling to find something you like on your desired dates, I’d suggest zooming in to Google Maps and consider calling the accommodations that show up in town or along the lagoon.

Given the heat and humidity in this part of Mexico, it’s definitely worth looking for accommodations that offer A/C. Bacalar doesn’t have nearly as many rooms available as the Playa del Carmens and Tulums of the world so it’s always a good idea to book in advance - especially during peak season (winter holidays, spring break, Easter).

In the end, we opted to stay in town at Hotel Szapot, a small and central hotel with basic but clean rooms under $40/night. The Yak Lakehouse is a popular hostel with dorms and private rooms right on the lake. Toto Blue is a boutique hotel in town with comfortable suites and all the amenities.

Protecting the Maldives of Mexico

Commonly referred to as the Maldives of Mexico, most visitors are drawn to Bacalar because of its popular lagoon. The Lagoon of 7 Colours (or Laguna de Siete Colores in Spanish) is a fitting name for the town’s main attraction. I’ve never seen anything quite like it and the lagoon’s striking shades of blue were the main reason for our visit. Long wooden docks stretch out into shallow turquoise waters and, with a little imagination, I guess it does feel like the overwater bungalows of the Maldives.

While the blue hues are impressive, what’s even more unique about the lagoon is its high concentration of stromatolites: rare rock formations that are among the earliest life forms on earth. Bacalar’s recent growth in tourism poses a real threat to both the lagoon and the stromatolites so we hope you’ll make sustainable choices while visiting:

• Use only organic sunscreen when swimming in the lagoon
• Avoid single-use plastics as much as possible
• Opt for sailing and kayaking in lieu of motorboat tours

As they say, “take only pictures, leave only footprints.”

Our Bacalar Travel Essentials

We hope you found this guide to Bacalar, Mexico helpful and look forward to hearing about your experiences in the comments! We’ve also included a handy map to help you get a feel for the town and a better understanding of where things are located. For more insight on our time in this paradise (including drone footage of the crystal clear waters!) we’ve linked our Bacalar travel vlogs below: